8 oz. Burger Bar

Occupying the former Table 8 space on Melrose, 8 oz Burger Bar is a is a fun, casual neighborhood burger joint from chef Govind Armstrong. I had a chance to look at 8 oz. before construction was completed, and I think the owners have done a fantastic job of realizing their vision of a low-key, friendly restaurant with simple, delicious food and a welcoming vibe. The space has been completely revamped, with serious attention to detail. The dark walls and goth feel of Table 8 have been replaced with gleaming subway tiles, concrete floors, leather banquettes, wood wainscoting and mirror-accented walls. There are few flat screen TVs placed strategically over the bar, and the drink menu is listed bistro-style on a large chalk board. Come summer, I’m looking forward to checking out the indoor patio that opens onto Melrose for some sure-to-be stellar people-watching accompanied by a frosty beverage or two.

The cocktail list at 8 oz is geared towards “classically inspired cocktails.” We tried two -- the Moscow Mule (vodka, ginger puree, fresh lime juice, and ginger ale) and the Blackberry Collins (choice of vodka or gin, muddled blackberries, fresh lemon juice, soda water). Both were excellent. The Moscow Mule was crisp and not-too-sweet, just the way I like it. The spicy kick from the ginger puree was tempered by the tang of the lime juice and the smoothness of the ginger ale, and the liberal amount of vodka was not apparent until I became tipsy during round two. The Blackberry Collins had a lush berry flavor, and benefitted from the use of homemade Collins mix. There was none of that artificial sour taste that store-bought Collins mix tends to impart.

8 oz. has a short, well-edited list of wines available by the glass ($8), the carafe ($16), and by the bottle ($32). The beer list, from “beer chick” Christina Perillo covers everything from $3 PBR to a $22 750 ml of Russian River Damnation.

The menu is quite large considering the specificity of the concept. There are several types of burgers, ranging from veggie and fish to Estancia grass-fed beef and the house burger blend, all priced between $8 and $10. Cheese and specialty condiments can be added for $1 each, and various other additions, such as bacon, roasted mushrooms, and fried green tomatoes, can be added for $2 each. The starters, sides and salads are inventive, and include fried olives, mini-Kobe corn dogs, and a green bean salad with duck prosciutto, hazelnuts, tangerines, frisee and a truffle honey vinaigrette.

I was dying to try the mini Kobe corn dogs, but in recognition of the meaty goodness to come, we started with the grilled artichoke, served with a house-made herb aioli.

For the main event, we had the Melrose Burger, the short rib grilled cheese, an order of fried pickles, and the truffled potato skins.

The Melrose burger is made with the house-blend patty (sirloin, tri-tip, short rib and chuck cured in 8oz.’s himalayan salt-tiled locker), wild baby arugula, garlic-roasted tomatoes, and red onion marmalade. My friend, who shares my belief that burgers can’t be eaten without cheese, added bel paese cheese. Definitely a lot going on, but it worked. The toppings didn’t obscure the taste of the terrific meat, and the onion marmalade was a nice counterpoint to the garlicky tomatoes.

The short rib grilled cheese approaches sandwich nirvana. It starts with short ribs, braised until tender and succulent, and then shredded, placed on bread and topped with onion marmalade and bel paese cheese. Next, the sandwich is pressed until the bread is browned and the cheese melted. A simple concept, executed flawlessly. The richness of the short ribs, creaminess of the cheese, and hint of sweetness from the marmalade combined to make a perfect sandwich. The burgers may the main draw at 8oz., but the short rib grilled cheese should not be missed.

The truffled potato skins were also a standout. Thin, with a generous does of truffle oil, I could have made a meal out of these. Nothing like the dense, mealy potato skins served at sports bars everywhere.

The pickles, while slightly overshadowed by the deliciousness of the potato skins, were really great. They were fried in a light cornmeal crust (usually found on po-boy bound oysters) that provided a satisfying crunch but didn’t overwhelm the pickles.

We had grandiose visions of a banana split (the people next to us had one and it looked delish!), but ultimately decided to finish things off with a carrot cupcake, topped with cream cheese frosting (I won't even discuss the possibility of carrot cake with any other kind of frosting -- that would just be unnatural).

The verdict: burgers, beers, and sandwich nirvana. What’s not to like? If you’re fed up with the wait and strict rules at Father’s Office (a burger I love, but not everyday), give 8 oz a try.